Hardiness Zones
Daylilies thrive in zones 3-8; although they can grow in zones 1-10, it is not ideal. Dormant and Semi-Evergreen cultivars are best for zones 3 - 7. Evergreen and some Semi-Evergreen cultivars are best suited for zones 8-10.
When To Plant
The ideal time to plant daylilies is early-late spring and early–late fall; in the coldest climates, plant after hard freezes. In mild climates, you can plant daylilies throughout the summer. In hotter, more humid climates, avoid planting during the hottest summer months.
Where To Plant
Daylilies grow best in full sun or partial shade; filtered sunlight is ideal. They could be planted in well-drained soil away from tree and shrub roots. When potted, depending on the pot's size and the soil mixture used, daylilies can strive for up to five years without transplanting.
Soil
Any soil, especially heavy clay or sand, could be improved by incorporating organic matter such as peat moss, compost, aged manure, etc. The ideal soil PH level for daylilies is 6-6.5. You can contact your local agriculture or horticulture agency to have your soil's PH level tested.
Mulch
Ideal mulch for daylilies is aged mulches such as compost/hardwood mix, oak leaves, pine fines, and pine needles to improve the soil. These mulch types could be put around the daylilies 2 inches thick to adequately help retain moisture in the ground, prevent weeds, and keep the soil warm during the colder months and cooler in the hotter months.
Watering
Daylilies thrive with liberal watering but could not be kept too wet for long periods, especially in warmer climates or heavy clay soils. Plenty of water in the spring is most beneficial. Watering daylilies 9-11inches deep is better than more frequent shallow watering's. Allow them to drink all the water before watering again but be sure not to let them dry out too much. Avoid watering at night to prevent fungal diseases such as leaf streaking and rust. Late watering will also leave them more susceptible to various fungi and night creatures such as slugs and snails.
Planting
When planting daylilies, you want to loosen the soil thoroughly to a depth of 8-12 inches. Form a mound in the center of the hole ¾-2 inches below the soil level. Place the daylily on top with the roots radiating downward to cover the mound. You could then fill the hole and firm the soil in place. Daylilies could be at a minimum of 18 inches apart.
In colder climates, daylilies can thrive for years without lifting and refreshing as long as you plant them at least 30 inches apart. When wanting to grow them for maximum viewing pleasure, you could plant them as much as 5 feet apart.
Fertilizer
Daylilies can grow in a variety of soil conditions and thrive with minimal feeding. In soils with a PH of 5-6.5, light feeding in the spring will be sufficient. Daylilies in all climates love fertilizers such as Milorganite and other refined aged manure fertilizers. You can mix these organic fertilizers into the soil before planting or top dressing, avoiding getting them inside the daylily leaves. When in doubt, we highly recommend determining your soil conditions and nutritional needs before planting. (Contact your local Ag facility)
Beneficial insects and fungi are precious for your garden as they kill harmful insects and fungi. Gardeners are thrilled to have praying mantises, orius insidiosus, predatory mites, and lacewings. Pesticides can be helpful, but they can also be harmful, 'Kelthane' is a hazardous pesticide as it can be toxic to your daylilies.
Slugs primarily attack newly forming leaves and scapes. These pests live in cool, dark, damp spaces such as under rocks or cool mulch. Feeding time for snails and slugs is before dawn or after dusk when the day's heat is gone. Adequate sanitation can deter them off, and many commercial products like 'sluggo' can be useful when used correctly.
There are many varieties of these demons. They all arrive when summer winds are hot and dry. The ideal control comes from their relatives, a mite known as Phytoseiulus persimilis, which eats the undesirable mites after they have built up a sufficient population to sustain them. Spider mites attack the leaves' undersides, and you can partially control them by washing them off with water. Several chemical sprays are also available to help manage these pests. Be sure not to use 'Kelthane' and to follow the directions for the selected chemical.
Thrips are another form of attackers; these devils arrive early in the season, leaving silvery scars (turning yellow, then brown) on scapes and buds. Some biological control options are green lacewings, predatory mites, amlyseius cumeris, predator thrips, predatory nematodes, and orius insidiosus. Numerous pesticide sprays need to be applied early for best control.
Leaf Streak
Daylilies are susceptible to "Leaf Streak" fungus. This fungus mainly occurs when foliage is wet for more than 3 ½ hours at 55-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Watering in the daytime and using drip irrigation helps. You can easily control Leaf Streak by using fungicides (contact or systemic). Daconil, Banner Max, and Dithane are a few effective fungicides.
Rust
Rust is a fungus that manifests as raised rust-colored, crusty spots on foliage. To check for rust, wipe the suspected areas with a white rag; if the marks wipe off, it will likely be rust. In zones six and above, rust is killed off by the cold and does not reoccur unless introduced again by an infected plant. When discovered early, you can suppress rust by using various fungicides such as daconil, banner max, mancozeb, dithane, Cabrio, heritage, and many others. Check with your local county AG agent for easy identification and recommendations.
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